BugEyeGuys

1960 Bugeye driver for sale, perfect for any budget!

September 5, 2025 by bugeyeguy

Offered for sale at $15,995

This is a great car for someone looking for a Bugeye on a budget! Meet “Kitty” (AN5L 23927), a 1960 Bugeye Sprite driver. Kitty represents the perfect “entry-level” Bugeye; that is to say, a Bugeye that runs and drives well, in a mostly stock configuration, at a price that suits any budget!

Kitty still boasts an original drivetrain configuration of a 948 engine with stock H1 carburetors and smooth-case transmission. This is a delightfully basic arrangement that provides adequate power for its size and will still get you where you need to go! Original-type drum brakes are also still employed on all four corners and stop the car well.

Of course, Kitty also has a number of delightful upgrades and frills! The bonnet has been converted to a flip-forward, allowing easier engine bay access for checking oil, changing batteries, filling brake fluid, etc. An air horn has been fitted, as has a heater assembly from a later Sprite/Midget. Vintage Minilite wheels look sharp against the Iris Blue-esque paint, which is in good condition and shines well. In the cockpit, the previous owner installed one of our removable steering wheel hubs with a color-matched blue leather steering wheel, which allows easier cockpit access for taller and larger drivers. The interior itself is finished in dark blue with contrasting light blue piping on the seats, and is in very good condition.

The really nice thing about a Bugeye in this price range is you can either cruise around the neighborhood with the car as-is, which it is perfectly suited for, or you can utilize it as a “blank canvas” of sorts and perform all sorts of upgrades to make it into a car you can comfortably drive anywhere! For example, the wiring is in good working order, but a new wiring harness would tidy up the engine bay and under the dash. Three-point retractable seat belts would add a layer of safety to the cockpit, and are an upgrade we recommend with every Bugeye we sell. A rebuilt 1275 engine and Ford five-speed transmission would make highway driving worry-free!

Of course, as with any 70-year-old British automobile, there are things we would like to repair for the new owner. For example, the flip-forward nose could use some reinforcing, which we do with all of our flip-forward conversions. The tires are 25 years old and are aged out; a new set of 165 tires (175s are currently installed) would look great on the Minilite wheels. A nice short tonneau is included, but there is no convertible top; we can fit a new blue one, either in vinyl or perhaps in stayfast canvas. We can do as much or as little as the new owner would like!

This is a good car at an incredible price! Click “read more” below for the full compliment of photos, and give us a call if you’d like to learn more about Kitty today!

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Feeling bushed

September 5, 2025 by bugeyeguy

Radius arm bushings may be the most common worn-out part we see on Bugeyes that come in for service. No matter the car, no matter the driving conditions, no matter how well-maintained a Bugeye is, radius arm bushings are a high-wear part and an important component of your rear suspension. They help to hold the rear end steady and keep it from rocking back and forth when torque is applied. If you haven’t inspected your radius arm bushings in a while, you absolutely should, and chances are you’ll find worn bushings when you do.

The photos taken above were from a Bugeye that recently came to us for a suspension service. Lucky they did, because this radius arm was in rough shape! The center sleeve of the bushing had been pulled all the way into the body of the radius arm. Luckily we caught it and were able to install new radius arms, and it was good as new.

The photos shown here were taken of the radius arm on the other side of the car. As with the first arm, this one had severely worn bushings; in this case, the bushing tried to change itself!

*When we replace radius arms, we use brand new arms with bushings pre-installed. Click the photo above to order some for your Bugeye, or click here if you want to try changing the bushings yourself!*

Swapping out bushings in an original radius arm is very difficult. The arms are made out of thin metal, and the bushings are often frozen inside their mountings, making extraction of the old bushing very challenging. A lot of the time, you can bend the arm with the pressure needed to remove the bushing. That’s why we always swap out the entire arm for a brand new one, which comes pre-assembled with new bushings. If you need a set, click the photo above to order one, or click here for our full catalog!

Corn on the carb

September 5, 2025 by bugeyeguy

Ethanol is made from corn.

*The gold tubes should only show when your choke is pulled*

Ethanol promotes gum. And you will find gum forming in the jet assembly in your carbs, especially if you use your Spridget infrequently. Note the photo below. Pull the choke and the jets come down to richen the mixture. Let go of the choke, and if you are unlucky, gum prevents the jets from returning. Thus your mixture is permanently rich, even though the choke looks like it is in the off position on your dashboard.

These pictures are from Dave in Washington, who reports fouled plugs. No wonder. You can see the gold jet tubes exposed in the photo. This indicates his jets are stuck in the hyper rich position, likely due to ethanol in the fuel and the resultant moisture the corn absorbs and gummy residue that results.

Bummer!

Ethanol free fuel is best if you can find it. We can’t get it here in the Northeast, but look online to see if it is available in your state. Otherwise, check your choke operation. Spray them with carb cleaner as you cycle the choke. Make sure the carb jets slide easily and take them apart to clean the jet tubes. Worst comes to worst, push the jets upward so that their shoulders rest in the proper position, which will effectively turn the choke off.

Gum is preventing this jet from returning properly. The gold tube showing means the jet is too low, and will excessively richen the mixture

In the top photo, you can see the left carb jet is lower than the right one. So we also have asymmetrical mixture as a result of this issue. Remember, when you loosen the nut shown right above the jet, you richen the mixture. It should be about 12 flats down from screwed all the way up tight. These carbs would have 50 or more flats screwed down were you to adjust the mixture intentionally to this setting. No wonder the plugs fouled!

We have a few videos about this on youtube that would be worth watching is this is still muddy for you. We have had many questions about this issue, so I wanted to highlight this situation to help people better understand the importance of a healthy choke! We sell new jets and rebuild kits in our catalog if you need them…

A 1960 Bugeye you can drive anywhere, with all the right upgrades!

September 5, 2025 by bugeyeguy

For sale $24,995

Barney is a wonderful car at a wonderful price! This Bugeye has been through our shop and has had many upgrades and repairs performed over the last 12 months, including an all-new wiring harness, a new solid-state fuel pump, new water hoses, and much more! Give us a call if Barney is right for you!

Barney (AN5L 33261) is a great 1960 Bugeye driver. It came to us from Idaho and is ready for its next home! If you want a modified Bugeye you can use without guilt, this is a great choice.

“Barney” underwent a round of upgrades in the fall of 2024 to make it even better! This list includes:
– re-wire the car
– recover the dashboard
– install new upgraded gauges – a new GPS Speedometer & new matching electronic tachometer
– install new cables and switches: choke cable, starter switch, wiper switch, turn signal switch, oil pressure gauge line/hose/fitting
– install new fuse box, dummy regulator and flasher unit
– replace both battery cables
– install an engine-driven upgraded six-blade fan and new water hoses
– install new park/turn signal rubber sockets and bulb sockets, new tail light gaskets
– restore horn cone and make horn work properly
– replace the valve cover gasket
– replace the hard brake line on the firewall and the right front brake line
– re-seal the fuel tank with a new fuel sender and new gaskets
– a new solid state fuel pump
– new fuel lines throughout
– new fuel filter

Prior owners have spent generously on many upgrades, all of which you can buy now at a depreciated price. The car is great, and drives great. This car is a really attractive package at a great price!

This car has many of the best upgrades… a 1275 engine with upgraded roller rockers for improved valvetrain performance, rib case transmission, front disc brakes, front sway bar and rear tube shocks. Also installed is a high output starter, 123 electronic distributor, flip forward nose upgrade, an alternator for improved charging, a cross-flow radiator for improved cooling, cockpit style bar, luggage rack, upgraded leather wheel, chrome shift tower, minilight-style wheels, twin wing mirrors, and more!

*Air filters were removed for tuning, but a set will be included with the car.*

The custom tonneau is good, but could use new velcro around the roll bar (which we can sew on for the new owner). The top is torn at the front but is useable as-is – we’d love to mount a new one for you! There is no top bar included (the bar in the top-up photos was used only to display the top and is not included) but we have new two-piece top bars available should you desire to use a top, which will stow properly with the roll bar fitted. The side curtains are in great shape. The tires are older and need replacement. The flip nose received reinforcing braces during the last round of upgrades in 2024 to reduce floppiness.. The floors are fine, just not tournament-grade restoration work. We can do as much or as little as the new owner would like!

This is a great car, very useable, fun, tight, solid, quick, nice action on all controls, good tight shifting, great gearbox that doesn’t complain, I like the many accessories that were added, which you can now buy at a depreciated rate by buying this car. The paint is thinning in some spots, but overall this is a great car you can drive anywhere without worry! Click “read more” for the full photo gallery or give us a call to discuss Barney today!

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Irregular regulator

August 29, 2025 by bugeyeguy

Sometimes when we experience a part failure in the field while test driving, its symptoms lead us in a different direction and it takes some time to figure out what’s going on. Such was the case with the failure shown below, which occurred on a recent test drive.

*That’s not supposed to happen… This kind of failure will stop your Bugeye dead in its tracks.*

This voltage regulator was removed from a Bugeye that exhibited a no-power condition in a parking lot on a recent test drive. Usually when a no-start condition is present, It can be traced to some more easily-traceable causes, like a loose battery connection, a blown fuse, or a loose ignition switch terminal (more on that problem here).

*The inner workings of a factory-style points-type voltage regulator. A simple design used for over 30 years in all kinds of classic automobiles*, *but one that offers no fused protection in the case of a system overload.*

The main power feed on the voltage regulator burning a hole in itself is not something we see often, and what’s more, it is in a hidden location that isn’t easily accessible to check without removing the regulator from its erch on the inner fender well. We were able to get the car home but does allow us to showcase one of our favorite Bugeye upgrades we employ any time we get the chance.

*Most people wouldn’t even be able to tell that this generator is actually an alternator inside! Modern charging performance in a classic case. Click the photo to learn more!*

Our generator/alternator is a great upgrade in and of itself; it has the superior charging performance of a modern alternator, with the vintage appearance of a stock generator. Only the trained eye would know this isn’t a stock part once installed! However, the real star of the show is our dummy voltage regulator, employed in conjunction with the generator/alternator and sold as part of the conversion kit.

Our generator/alternator is internally-regulated; this means the old, external voltage regulator is no longer needed. Our dummy voltage regulator takes the original, points-type regulator and eliminates all of the wires and connections underneath the cap, instead replacing it with a fuse, which specifically protects the charging system.

*An example of a blown PAL fuse, the type used in our dummy voltage regulators. (Our dummy regulators use a 50 amp fuse instead of the 120 amp one shown.)*

This is a big deal, as the original Bugeye charging systems had no dedicated fuse to protect it. This is how failures like the one we experienced at the beginning of this post occur; when too much current or voltage flows through a circuit, it tends to find the weakest link and cooks it. In the case of our failure, it found the thin metal strip that serves as the main power feed to the entire car, rendering it inoperable. A fuse would have saved the strip from burning up, and is much easier and cheaper to change than an entire voltage regulator.

Click the photos above to learn more about our generator/alternator and dummy voltage regulator, and why you should put one in your Bugeye today! Should you want to keep your original charging system intact, or want to upgrade to an alternator and are not worried about maintaining the stock look of the generator/alternator, click the photos below for some of our other charging system offerings, or click here for our full catalog!

*Conventional voltage regulator, pre-adjusted (Bugeye-1962)*

*Bugeye/Spridget alternator conversion kit (through 1971)*

Terminal troubles

August 29, 2025 by bugeyeguy

After selling 443 Bugeyes and working on about 400 more, we have seen everything there is to see in terms of part failures. We use the experience we have developed in the field and apply it to the cars we work on, as well as the parts we sell, to better ensure the parts we install and/or ship out to our clients are of the best possible quality and will last as long as possible. A perfect example of this lies in the photographs below of a part removed from a client’s car in preparation to ship it home.

*That brass contact is supposed to be attached to the switch…*

This ignition/headlight switch failed while driving, and a quick fix had to be employed in order to get the car back to the shop in order to replace it. Luckily, we were able to get the switch changed out for one of our improved units and the car is now joyfully frolicking around the New Hampshire countryside with its new owner.

*This is a common failure point with ignition switches for Bugeyes. We have the solution!*

Unfortunately, as a collective, the aftermarket collector car parts market has seen a down-turn in quality over the past 15 to 20 years, and failures like this are common. The aftermarket ignition switch shown above had improperly-secured brass electrical contacts; the rivets used to hold them in place were improperly stamped, causing the main ignition feed terminal to fall off. This is not only a headache that can leave you stranded, but is also a potential fire risk. Luckily, we sell a solution to ensure this never happens to you!

Our Modified, improved and ready-to-install Bugeye ignition switch solves many of the issues plaguing aftermarket Bugeye ignition switches, and is a Bugeyeguys exclusive product! Click the photo to learn more! (Switch shown with optional guillotine)

Our modified, improved and ready-to-install Bugeye ignition switch offers several features to set it apart from other switches on the market in a number of ways. We pre-assemble each ignition switch; we load it with its lock cylinder, properly fasten the headlamp control knob, test it for proper functionality, and then we enhance the connection between the brass power terminals to the switch to ensure no terminal falls off while in use!

*Our exclusive ignition switch guillotine allows for a more secure ignition switch than other retaining methods. Click the photo to learn more!*

We also optionally can equip the switch with our ignition “guillotine”, which is a Bugeyeguys exclusive product that replaces the old-style, ineffective wire retaining clip for the switch with a robust aluminum clamp that holds your switch securely in the dash, and prevents spinning! Click the photos above to learn more about these products, or click here for our full catalog, where you can find more Bugeyeguys-exclusive parts solutions!