BugEyeGuys

Great 1960 Austin Healey Bugeyed-Sprite driver for sale!

August 28, 2026 by bugeyeguy

Now SOLD to Mike in SC! Congratulations on Bugeye #471!

Bugeyes often look like vintage penny candy, and this one is no exception!

Meet “Flip,” (AN5L 27223). We have just gotten Flip in to sell for its most steward in Florida, who had purchased the car from us in 2023 and at that time he had us upgrade a few things, including fitting a brand new cream tan tonneau, new rear axle seals and brake shoes, a spin-on oil filter conversion, generator/alternator conversion, and more. Prior to that, a different owner in Florida owned Flip, and in 2021 the car received an additional list of multiple upgrades, plus our six hour departure check-over being completed (now twice) to ensure that every part of this vintage car is ready for a new home. As such, you get a superior car to what you might otherwise find online from other sources.

Prior to the 2023 sale, we further upgraded the nice interior with metal threshold covers in the footwells, and improved the under-bonnet X-bracing to better stabilize the flip-forward nose. These are welcome improvements to make this nice car even better-our clients love the ease of operation of a flip forward bonnet. So if you are looking for a nice driver that has been carefully evaluated and upgraded, give this one a serious look!

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Beautiful Black/Burgundy MGA Mark II For Sale! Driving Video!

August 28, 2026 by bugeyeguy

NOW AVAILABLE AGAIN! The most recent buyer had to back out due to health-related concerns, so this MGA is available again! Give us a call if you’re interested in a striking piece of British roadster history!

We sold this car four years ago to a great home in California and we now have it back again!

Here is a rare opportunity to purchase a vehicle out of my own personal collection! This is a 1962 MGA 1622 Mark II. This car was prepared for concours judging when it was restored in Canada about 20 years ago, and it has been a dry weather driver ever since. It’s been used very little in that period and it remains in excellent shape. The underside is impressive; the interior is beautiful, with leather seats and the proper Mark II deluxe dashboard.

If you’re unfamiliar, the Mark II was the last of the MGAs; they are able to be distinguished from their Mark I brethren by their horizontal tail lights and more sculptural rear fenders, as well as a recessed grill that’s a little different from the earlier cars. In late 1961, the Mark II came along and was the shortest production run for the breed, producing just over 8,000 cars in its 2 year pruduction run before the MGB came out in 1963 and replaced it.

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Masterful diagnostics

August 28, 2026 by bugeyeguy

Old English car issues are sometimes very easy to diagnose. When stuff leaks, there is a problem, except, of course, when it’s leaking oil, which is inevitable, and which is only really a problem when it floods your driveway or stains the tops of your shoes.

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Ups and Downs

August 28, 2026 by bugeyeguy

King pins and swivel axles are a constant focus here, because we want tightness, and this is a common source of loose. We talk a lot about bad bushings, and front end play, and lubing the bushings, but the up/ down adjustment is commonly neglected, and when that happens, you get the play you can see in the video below

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More than you need to know about A pillar blisters

August 21, 2026 by bugeyeguy

We’ve seen a lot of cars in need of A pillar patches lately, and it’s pretty interesting, particularly since this is a common area of concern on all Sprites and many other classic British cars, as well. All too often, these cars are beautiful, but you’ll find some blisters in the A pillar area, which can ruin an otherwise show-quality car.

*An A pillar looking like this has ruined many beautiful Bugeyes.*

Water enters the A pillar cavity (that’s the rectangular pillar directly in front of the door hinges) through the windshield post mounting holes. You can see in our photos below that the front windshield mounting threaded hole is a direct link to the cavity where we often see rust blisters on Sprites. Once the water runs down that hole it gets trapped with no drainage and can sometimes rust the top of the rocker panel as well.

The front screw holes for the windshield stanchions, visible at the top of this photo, open up directly into the structure of where the doors mount. If left unchecked, moisture and debris can find its way into these cavities and wreak havoc on the metal, creating a mess like this.

In general, this is nothing more than a nuisance and not a particularly structurally consequential issue, because the rust is usually contained to the small A pillar lower portion. The first patch that you see below is a simple repair of a very small rectangular area where we cut out the rusted area, treated the metal to prevent further rust, and then welded in a small patch. It’s one of the easiest rust repairs you can ever take-on… it’s very satisfying and manageable, and blisters such as these are not usually indicative of larger rust problems throughout the car– it’s usually a localized problem.

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Fender Mender

August 21, 2026 by bugeyeguy

The lower rear quarter is a common rust area on Frogeyes. Over the years, we’ve seen our share of blistered panels in this portion of the car. In some instances, the damage is extreme, but it’s not always as difficult as you might think to repair this area. We sell a patch panel for this purpose, which you can see by clicking here. With the car shown, only a portion of that panel was needed, so we just use what is needed from the patch panel, and it is different with each job.

Prior to the repair, blistering and cancerous rust were visible both on the outer quarter but also its support structure.

If you follow the sequence of the photos, you can see the blistered area prior to the repair and then the rusted material that we cut away.

Here’s a photo of the rusted piece on the bench, which we use to match the paint color, once the repair is complete.

Here you can see the patch we fabricated for the inner skin of this area, hand-formed by our lead fabricator Kenny.

Then, after welding in the inner patch, the outer patch panel is tack welded in, and then a complete bead of welding all the way across the seam is laid down, which is then ground down flat.

Finally, a very thin coat of body filler is applied so that we can sand the repaired area into a perfect compound curve.

Next week, the primer goes on and then the final red spray is blended into the existing quarter panel.

If you need a fender patch panel, click the photo above to get one!

The design of this rear section is not ideal; moisture gets trapped at the bottom of the fender in this area and leads to the blisters and rust that you see in this post, but now that it’s been removed and repaired and resealed inside, this Sprite should enjoy another 50 years without perforation!